Brazil or Bust

Hi there!
Been a while, hasn't it?
Well the suspense will end now!
Things are still winging along. Thieny, Israel and I are still in the same condo in Fortaleza and we are still looking forward to a great year of helping more clients of fortaleza Adventure.
A rough count would have us helping around 50 clients visit or stay in Brazil over the past couple of years that the service has existed.
The city has grown as well. The CIA book on Fortaleza says the population, according to the 2007 census, is now 3.4M people! When I came to the city in 2003, there were 2.6M.
There has been a dramatic increase in the number of high rise buildings in the city.You can find the exact number by clicking here.

We have just come through Carnival 2008, and on Sunday took a drive for the day to Morro Branco and Praia das Fontes.


We didn't go early enough!
From what we found, 8am wouldn't have been to early!
We had hoped the beach would look a lot more like this! (actually, this is Majorlandia, where another friend, also John, another Canuck, has built a beautiful home)
By the time we got there, around 10am, and after something like 45 minutes to go a few blocks in Morro Branco, the beach areas were already out of tables and chairs...you could still sit in the sun if you wanted to...and bake!
The crowd was incredible, and while we inched our way back up the streets away from the beach, there were hundreds of vehicles STILL pouring in, hoping to enjoy the party atmosphere.
Various vendors were shoulder along the streets in Morro Branco leading to the water...and where Fortaleza has all but stopped ANY music near the ocean, there were plenty of BIG speakers blaring forro and axe up and down the blocks on the way to the sand.
We finally pulled off the street even before getting back on the highway and had lunch...mainly because of the 3 kids...Israel, his primo or cousin, Mathaus who is 10, and his friend Taina...a very pretty 10 year old Brasileira.
We got back to Fortaleza around 4pm after spending most of the day driving...not what we'd planned.

The kids stayed overnight at the condo though and Thieny took them to the local beach on Beira Mar Monday. They were there most of the day, with Thieny and her older sister, Daisy.

My best friend John Mueller is coming back to Fortaleza on the 27th of the month and will be staying in the same condo he occupied the last time. It's also in my building so we can spend a lot of time together.
The building itself is right in the middle of the best area, in my opinion, Meireles. We're only a couple of blocks from the beach and there are something like 20 restaurants within a ten minute walk!
That's not to mention all the other stores and services including Blockbuster...although Lojas Americanas has purchased the Brazilian rights to Blockbuster and combined their stores, so you can shop for many things you would ordinarily go to a department store for and rent a film at the same time. It's now known as Americanas Express - Blockbuster.

There is the one big change to the city life of the local beach and that is that the city has clamped down on music at the beachfront barracas (ba-hack-as). So the one we used to go to near Club Nautico, the big swim club on Beira Mar that had a big screen TV and used to show music videos, has been forced to shut that off!
Not even the ones right on the sand can have music now and the city has hired a number of agents who wear red vests to "police" the strip and make sure no one is violating the order.
I understand this is the result of the hotels on the side of Beira Mar away from the sand complaining about the "noise". This may be a case of the hotels "cutting their nose off despite their face", so to speak, because many, many people come to the beach to lie back in the sun or shade, hoist a cool one and listen to the forro.
I also hear rumors that our lady mayor wants to tear down all the existing barracas and create a sort of generic store for vending drinks and food on or near the beach.
If this actually happens, and I think it might over the next couple of years, it will certainly change the atmosphere and I'm not sure for the better. It will clean up the scene but also change the dynamic and I'm not sure of the effect on the people who come here to experience the local scene.

It will also be interesting to see what effect the new legislation that forbids the sale of alcohol near the national highways will have on the local economies of smaller communities, which tend to have lots of restaurants and bars near the highway.
I understand that this is one way of working to reduce the number of accidents where alcohol is a contributing factor, but my opinion is that raising the tax on the product might have more effect and not hurt local business so much.
Mind you, this is only my opinion and if it works, it will have achieved a good result for everyone.
More in the next post.

Because many people have had difficulty finding Part IV of Brazil or bust, I have decided to add it to the blog:

Brazil or Bust IV

Catching Up

As the subtitle indicates, it’s been a while since my last words on living in Brazil. This is meant to being you up to date with what’s been happening and some of the interesting people who have passed through Fortaleza and our lives.

Let’s go back to just after Thieny and I were married. That would be October of 2004.

I took you through my experience with a “fixer” named Ze.

He really did assist with the marriage and I thought that his assistance would get us a car really quickly and perhaps at a lower price than we might pay with me doing the talking, mainly because if the Brazilians here see a “Gringo” coming, the price tends to go up!

I handed Ze a lot of money...over R$15,000...because we had looked at several cars of the type I wanted and found none at a lower amount.

After more than a month of false starts and being put off, it became evident to me that Ze was not doing anything about getting me a car.

I asked for my money back so I could find a car myself or another dealer who had what I wanted. Well, Ze didn’t like that too much. After talking to several people who were more familiar with this type of thing, it appears Ze had investred my money in some other vehicle or vehicles and was in the process of moving them between various “clients”. At one point, he tried giving me an old Ford Courier pickup as part of the deal.

I ended up taking my problem to a lawyer and Marcus finally got Thieny and I to meet with Ze and the local area police chief, called a Delegado.

As we went in to meet him, my lawyer asked me if I had R$300! “What’s that for?” I asked. “The Delegado has to be paid or he won’t even look at your case!”

Well, there was nothing else we could do and we did get most of the money.

the upshot of the whole thing was that I bought a car on my own and was left several thousand Reals short by the crook!

I didn’t realize just how big a crook until my lawyer ran his name on the police computer and found 8 criminal charges and an almost equal number of civil cases againt him.

Two lessons can be learned from my experience...don’t pay for any services up front, and make sure you get receipts. These two things may not solve every problem you have, but there is at least a better chance of keeping your money in YOUR pocket instead of someone else’s.

One other thing. Having to pay the police out of my own pocket is another demonstration of how corruption seeps into every part of Brazilian life.

A somewhat normal life filled the next six to eight months, as Thieny and I got used to living together as a married couple.

There were rough times, no question, but we managed to survive the “getting used to” in terms of trying to put together two different cultures, languages, ages and, at least to some extent, classes.

We had to overcome almost every obstacle a married couple can have, but we have done it, at least so far!

Thieny’s older sister, Daisy...she has three of them, two that live in Fortaleza and one in Sao Paulo...looks after the apartment for us, cooking, cleaning and washing, things “The Princess”, as I like to call her, doesn’t do! Unless she has to!

To be honest, Daisy is an angel who also looks after Thieny’s 5 year old son, Israel, when we are not here. She is very used to that, being his “tia” or aunt. She even does his homework with him!

One of the great moments for us came on our first anniversary.

I took Thieny to Guaramiranga, a mountain city about 80 kilometers away from the coast. She had never been into the mountains but always wanted to go there.

I described a little of Guaramiranga in a previous article which is linked at the botom of this one.

We stayed in the Hotel Escole. It’s a government run place where they do official training for various organizations. When there is no training going on, they rent out the rooms just like a regular hotel.

They have a big dining room and on the Saturday night, I ordered a special dinner plus a cake and flowers. Thieny was actually speechless! It was very beautiful.

I still remember the first morning...we came down for cafe early and the fog was rolling in clouds through the valley, just outside the windows.

Thieny jsut stood there with her mouth open! She had never seen anything like that before, and I was amazed as well.

Right next door to the hotel is a restaurant that I described in my first article.

Speaking of artists, Villa Lautrec, a restaurant featuring French cuisine, is located on the outskirts of Guaramiranga. It’s named, of course, for the famous French artist and is one of the most amazing eating-places I have ever seen. Built inside an old flour mill, with the exterior left intact, complete with water wheel and a huge pond covered with water lilies, it would be at home anywhere in the world. The view at night, with the pond surrounded by dim lighting only a few inches off the ground, is truly spectacular and I found it breathtaking. The sound is of hundreds of frogs letting potential mates know their whereabouts. There are huge picture windows so patrons can enjoy the view. The food was truly world class, and inexpensive by North American or European standards.

Attached to the restaurant is a rather unique bar, with construction of dark wood, where I spotted some of the locals who own weekend homes in the area. Apparently there is a very well heeled community surrounding Guaramiranga that “weekend” there as an escape from the beach heat of Fortaleza. The restaurant has a decidedly European flavor, with one lady seated at the bar waving one of those foot long cigarette holders!
The town is also home to a famous jazz festival and has a well maintained arts community.”

This year has been highlighted by our purchase of a small “lanchanete”. It’s in a non-tourist area of Aldeota, away from the beaches, and its clientele are the local Fortalezans.

Thieny has set it up well and runs the day-to-day operation, with the help of her other, older sister, Guaraceanna, who handles the kitchen and supervises when Thieny’s not there. It’s been a real learning experience for me when Thieny and I have gone to other parts of the city, away from the tourist areas, to shop for supplies. The prices are lower and can sometimes be changed with a little haggling!

I also have a new business called Fortaleza Adventure, which assists people coming to Fortaleza for the first time and who may not speak Portuguese. I’ll add the link at the bottom of the article.

Sometimes, even people who have been to Brazil a number of times but perhaps have never visited the northeast can take advantage of my services, such as meeting real estate agents and legal people, if their intent is to buy property.

More on Brasileiras in the next article.

Here’s the link to Fortaleza Adventure:

http://www.fortaleza-brazil-realestate.com

Well, most of the news surrounding the blog has to do with the Web Site for Fortaleza Adventure.
It has grown, with the addition of much more information spread over more pages, and with many more photos!

As I have pointed out several times on the site (but it bears repeating), Fortaleza Adventure does not buy and sell real estate, but because many, many questions come my way from existing and potential client, that I thought I would try and answer some of the questions and post some of my opinions and thoughts on the matter where people can see them without emailing me.
There are photos of a local sitio that is for sale, as well as a beach home and a newly constructed 3-suite home in a gated community just outside the city near the beach.
If you see one of these and want more information, simply email and I will put you in touch with the appropriate folks.
Meanwhile, a number of potential clients (they are not really clients until they have posted a deposit) have contacted me about visiting our city over the winter and into the spring (speaking in terms of South American seasons).
Some are expressing interest in moving here and some are just beginning their Fortaleza experience.
I have had one situation come up which is worth passing along in case it may happen again.
An American ( this would also apply to a Canadian) who had been living outside the US for a number of years, was traveling in another South American country and decided to visit Fortaleza.
This person had not been to Brazil previously and would be entering from Buenos Aires.
This person said they had done a lot of research on the subject before deciding to visit, so I saw no point in a reminder about Americans having to have a visa to enter Brazil!
This particular person arrived at the airport in BA at 3am, and learned the hard truth!
It takes anywhere from 3 to 15 days for the Brazilian Consulate to issue a tourist visa, so it can be an expensive awakening.
Bar da Boa continues to draw more local customers and is holding its own. as you probably know, the restaurant business is one of the toughest...and most time consuming. I don't see Thieny or Israel nearly enough, something we both realize.

More on the blog next week.

A good Sunday to you!
A good day for Random Thoughts.
It's been a busy winter/summer (depending on whether you're in the northern or southern hemisphere).
Fortaleza Adventure had a number of clients visit during February and March, from Canada, the US and also from Europe.
Christmas was a good time for my little Brazilian family, Thieny, Israel and I. We were all healthy, had some good times together during the holidays and managed to do that without running up horrible credit card bills, that make the next several months stressful!
Thieny's "Bar da Boa", in Vila Uniao showed promise during the run-up to Christmas but slowed afterwards, a combination, we assume, of people having spent all available funds and the start of the Fortaleza rainy season in February. Plus, of course, everyone is trying to put some money away for Carnaval.
Thieny and Guarasienna started serving a meal at middays on a regular basis in the past month, and that has made some difference. She can see some business growing now, after a marketing campaign with neighborhood flyers.
I enjoyed meeting the many people who came through Fortaleza during February and March as clients of Fortaleza Adventure.
There was the Captain and Deb from the US, Rafik from Canada's west coast, Mario from Mass. Stewart from Spain and Herm from BC.
Now they have scattered to the winds having all had a safe journey home.
I'm now talking with several potential new clients who may be here beginning next month.
I'm planning some changes for the Fortaleza Adventure web page, which you will be able to see in coming days.
These include, but are not restricted to, more photos, audio and video as well as a possible podcast!
Stay tuned!

Hi there!
Well, It has been quite a while and and the water under the bridge would fill maybe a smaller version of what's behind The Hoover Dam!

First of all, the location of our restaurant/bar has changed! No big surprise...this is now the third location for our business. The good thing is that it's been in place now for several months, and it actually makes money now instead of losing it.

You're probably wondering...why the move? Well, in the location on the only route (at the moment) to Beach Park, was designed to attract the passing tourists. It didn't happen! The passing tourists kept on passing. We just didn't have a powerful enough reason for them to stop.

And you're saying, why not?

The answer is that if we concentrated solely on the tourist traffic, we would have left the locals behind, and then , in the off-season, when there are far fewer tourists on the way to Beach Park, we lose because the place is just too expensive for them and we are not providing THEIR products, which differ from those we sell to the passing tourists.

That's part of the answer. There were other factors involved, such as the distance from our home and the amount I was spending on gas, which is not exactly inexpensive in Fortaleza.
Anyway, without dwelling on it too much, we moved the restaurant/bar to an area where Thieny grew up, knows the people and what they want, and where there is NO tourist traffic...but a regular, everyday parade of locals through the business.

Granted, we have our ups and downs there as well...such as during Carnaval, when many of the locals travel to other cities to celebrate, and they save up their money in the weeks beforehand, and during the actual holiday, go to the beach!
But by and large, this location works!

It now has a large regular clientele, plus a great weekend traffic flow. As is normal for restaurants in Fortaleza, we are closed Mondays. As well, Tursdays and Wednesdays are slower as we creep towards the weekend...Fortaleza is, in many ways, just a weekend city, as is the case with many tourist-centered economies.
I do not have any photos to share with you of "Bar da Boa", which is the name Thieny chose for it, but I will try and get some on here in the future.
On to other things.
For the better part of last year, my service...Fortaleza Adventure...had clients trickling in from various places in North America and Europe.

Lately, the pace has picked up and since the end of January, quite a number have come to visit our city.
Just yesterday, I was at Pinto Martins International Airport three times to either drop off or pick up clients.
These particular people were from the United States and Spain. The couple who were here for a month from Washington State were fixing up a condo apartment they had bought in Icaria. Stewart from Spain was just here de-pressurizing and also looking at potential property to buy.
The building of new condo towers seems to have slowed, but there are still many people contacting me who are very interested in investigating the rental income market here.
The chap who came in at 5am this morning has that in mind, as well as just resting up.
Rafik, A very ambitious young man who was here for a month, and left at the first of last week, was looking at several different kinds of import/export opportunities. We'll have to wait and see what may or may not develop from his gathering of ideas, but I've learned to never second guess my clients. They surprise me frequently.

As for my beautiful wife, Thieny, there is a good chance she will be dancing professionally in the near future with another musical group from Fortaleza. One of the singers for the group is ill so things are on hold at the moment but may start rolling this coming week.

Israel is in private school and doing quite well although we will probably have him move to a larger one when there is room. The bigger school is very popular.
On the downside, my bank debit card was cloned and my account was relieved of the balance in the first few days of this month. It's a hassle and the money is being replaced in my account by my bank, but it is a not too subtle warning to be very careful using your bank cards!


I'll really work at posting here more frequently. In fact, my goal is to update almost every day! We'll see how it goes.
Take care!

Well, the more things change, etc.
We've moved! The Biz, I mean!
We were in Aldeota but found after 6 months that the expenses of doing business there were just too high. The decision was made to clear out all the equipment we had purchased when we bought that location and move it.
Much time was spent in trying to locate a site in the city that was for rent "by owner", which meant it was not through an agent and probably could be arranged for a less expensive price.
At last our waitress and friend, Anna, found a location which was bigger...an actual restaurant instead of a lanchanete...and on the only highway leading from Fortaleza to Beach Park, the largest water resort in South America.
The location has a nice patio, as you can see, and much bigger kitchen area.
Thieny has worked hard at getting it ready to open and that we finally did...yesterday...in time for Brazil to defeat Japan, 4-1!
We feature a bigger menu than before and more ambiance for enjoying the food and drink.
The actual address is Avenida Maestro Lisboa, 2730-2.
If you're in Fortaleza and plan to visit Beach Park...which is an important tourist site here, drop in. We speak English...well, sometimes. I'm there occasionally although I have my own businesses to run, but Thieny speaks really well after only two years!
I'll get more details for you in another post.
Tchau for now!

Hi there!
Just wanted to tell you a little about "The Biz" because then, when you're in Fortaleza, you can drop by. You'll need to call me to get directions because we're not in the tourist area.
"The Biz" is a small "lanchanete" in Portuguese. It's really a little hole in the wall but with great food and good company!
It's on a street called Carlos Vasconcelos, 2054, if you can find it.
We have everything from Cafe in the morning, to drinks and various finger foods in the evening.
And everything is priced to be within reach for everyone. After all, we have to cater to the local Fortalezans in the area, and even though the lanchanete is situated in Aldeota, one of the higher rent area of the city, people here are not tourists and are paying in Reals, not US dollars or Euros!
Say hello to my beautiful Brasilera Thieny when you're there. She's in charge most days and her sister Guaraciana is a fantastic cook.
If you're a client of MY little company, "Fortaleza Adventure", you're bound to have visited at least once!